Highlights of the Christie’s Paris Joaillerie online auction from June 23 to July 07

Christie’s Paris online jewelry auction, which will take place from June 23 at 2:00 p.m. to July 7 at 12:00 p.m., called “Joaillerie”, includes a total of 298 lots, made up of a wide selection of diamonds, colored diamonds and precious stones of color including a 7.25 carat, E-color, VVS2 clarity rectangular cut diamond ring from Van Cleef & Arpels, a 5.28 carat rectangular cut diamond ring, E color, VS2 clarity from Harry Winston and a 7.14-carat cushion-cut Burmese sapphire by Jean Fouquet and an important 29.17-carat Ceylon sapphire ring.

The auction also features a finely curated selection of signed vintage pieces from Belperron, Boivin, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, David Webb, Jar, Seaman Schepps, Van Cleef & Arpels, among others, as well as contemporary designers.

The auction also offers the personal collection of the late Jean Fouquet, whose jewelry had produced good results in previous sales, in addition to several collections from other private collectors, consisting of Art Deco jewelry from Cartier, retro jewelry from Van Cleef and d’Arpels with an iconic Zip Necklace and Bestiary jewelry by David Webb.

Lot 298 DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING 25.40 CARATS


The top lot in the sale based on the current auction achieved so far is lot 298 – titled BAGUE COCKTAIL DIAMANT DE 25.40 CARATS, DIAMANTS ET SAPHIRS – 25.40 CARAT DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING, DIAMONDS AND SAPPHIRES – with an estimate of 280,000 EUR – 300,000 EUR, and reaching a current offer of 320,000 EUR.

The Platinum Ring, size FR: 54 / US: 6 ¾, is bezel set with a modified brilliant cut diamond, K-Color faint brown, VS1 Clarity, weighing 25.40 carats, surrounded by a row of rectangular cut blue caliber sapphires, the shoulders and sides of the ring, set with circular cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 27.00 to 27.50 carats.

GIA, 2022, report no. 2223424312 indicates that the 25.40 carat diamond is light brown color K, clarity VS1, without fluorescence.

Lot 18- SAPPHIRE RING 10.56 CARATS
Lot 18- SAPPHIRE RING 10.56 CARATS

The first batch of the estimate-based sale, lot 18 titled BAGUE SAPHIR DE 10.56 CARATS – 10.56 CARAT SAPPHIRE RING – reached the current second-highest bid of EUR 300,000, which is exactly equal to the estimate low of EUR 300,000, the highest estimate being EUR 400,000.

The Platinum Ring, size FR: 51 / US: 5 ½, is set on its setting with a brilliant cushion-cut cashmere blue sapphire weighing 10.56 carats.

SSEF, 2022, report no. 123142 indicates that the 10.56 carat Kashmir blue sapphire is natural without heat enhancement.

A second report from 2022 from Gübelin, bearing report no. 22040062 indicates that the 10.56 carat blue sapphire is of cashmere origin without heat enhancement.

Lot 227 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS NECKLACE
Lot 227 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS “ZIP” TRANSFORMABLE NECKLACE.

Another highlight of the sale which is the third highest lot based on an estimate of EUR 200,000-300,000 and a Current Bid of EUR 300,000, equal to the upper estimate, is the lot 227, titled VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS TRANSFORMABLE ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE – VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS TRANSFORMABLE ‘ZIP’ NECKLACE.

Lot 227 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS NECKLACE
Lot 227 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RUBY AND DIAMONDS “ZIP” TRANSFORMABLE NECKLACE.

The dimensions of the necklace are 45.0 cm x 1.5 cm, with the pompom measuring 4.5 cm x 1.6 cm. When made into bracelets, the dimensions are 18.2 x 2.5 cm and 22.5 x 2.5 cm.

The necklaces/bracelets are in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The circular cut rubies set on the necklace have a total weight of 16.50 to 20.50 carats. The circular diamonds set on the necklace have a total weight of 5.50 to 6.50 carats.

A true masterpiece of ingenuity and one of the most innovative jewels ever created, Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Zip” necklace is an iconic design with a rich and intriguing history.

The necklace was made for the Duchess of Windsor, one of the most stylish and fashionable women in the world and a loyal Van Cleef & Arpels customer, who placed an order in the 1930s to create a piece of jewelry inspired by the zipper to wear with her evening dresses. A patent for the design of the necklace was filed in 1938, but it was not until 1951 that Van Cleef & Arpels presented its first “Zip” necklace to the Duchess.

The “Zip” necklace is not only a beautiful and versatile piece of jewelry, but also a breathtaking technical feat. The top part of the necklace can be detached and the remaining part can be reassembled to form a bracelet, leaving the golden tassel hanging down one side. Very few of these iconic jewels were made in the 1950s, which explains why the few examples offered at auction are highly sought after by collectors.

CARTIER 4.96 CARATS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS BROOCH Lot 290 CARTIER 4.96 CARATS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS BROOCH
CARTIER SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS BROOCH 4.96 CARATSLot 290 CARTIER 4.96 CARATS SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS BROOCH

The next highlight of the sale, well below based on an estimate of EUR 80,000 to 120,000, CARTIER BROCHE SAPHIR DE 4.96 CARATS ET DIAMONDS – CARTIER 4.96 CARAT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMONDS BROOCH, was done pretty well so far based on a current bid of EUR 260,000 which is more than double the upper estimate of EUR 120,000.

The 18-carat white gold brooch, signed Cartier Paris, measures 3.0 x 2.9 cm and is set with a brilliant cushion-cut blue sapphire weighing 4.96 carats as the centrepiece, surrounded by a rosette of eleven diamonds marquise-cut whites.

Gübelin, 2018, Report No. 18020142 states that the 4.96 carat blue sapphire is of cashmere origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.

Total weight of marquise cut diamonds approximately 7.80 to 9.50 carats.

Lot 165 DIAMOND AND COLORED DIAMOND RING 9.46 CARATS
Lot 165 DIAMOND AND COLORED DIAMOND RING 9.46 CARATS

The next highlight of the sale based on the current auction is Lot 165 – BAGUE DIAMANT DE 9.46 CARATS ET DIAMANTS DE COULEUR – 9.46 CARAT DIAMOND AND COLORED DIAMOND RING, with an estimate of EUR 250,000 – 300,000 and reaching a bid current EUR 240,000 slightly lower than the low estimate.

Ring size – FR: 52 / US: 6, the rose gold ring is prong set with a modified pear cut diamond, D-Color, VS1-Clarity weighing 9.46 carats, with circular cut pink diamonds set on the upper hoop of the ring. Total weight of colored diamonds approx. 0.7 – 0.9 carat.

GIA, 2022, Report No. 5221424282 states that the 9.46 carat modified pear cut diamond is D color and VS1 clarity.

TWO DIAMONDS OF 3.03 and 3.22 CARATS
TWO DIAMONDS OF 3.03 and 3.22 CARATS

Lot 296 – TWO DIAMONDS OF 3.03 and 3.22 CARATS – TWO DIAMONDS OF 3.03 and 3.22 CARATS with an estimate of EUR 160,000 – 200,000 is the next highlight of the sale, achieving a current bid of EUR 190,000, within the limits of the estimate.

The two round brilliant-cut diamonds weigh 3.03 and 3.22 carats respectively.

GIA, 2022, Report No. 1146457065 states that the 3.03 carat diamond is D color, VVS2 clarity with no fluorescence.

GIA, 2022, Report No. 1156642785 states that the 3.22 carat diamond is D color, IF clarity, with no fluorescence.

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